Roll Paint Along the Edges for Consistent Texture
Corners and areas next to trim that are painted only with a brush have a different texture than the surrounding paint. To ensure the finished texture will be consistent in these areas, brush on the paint, then immediately roll it out before the paint dries. That is why i prefer to use a 2 gallon bucket with a smaller roller screen to do my cut ins.
Use a 3-in. roller with a nap that's the same thickness that was used for the rest of the wall. Roll as close as you can without bumping the opposite wall or slopping paint onto the trim. Finish brushing on the paint and rolling it out in one area before moving on to the next section.
Prime and Texture Wall Patches to Avoid a Blotchy Finish
Freshly painted walls often look blotchy. The color is uniform, but the sheen isn't consistent. This usually occurs over the holes and cracks you patched with a filler or drywall compound. The porous fillers absorb the paint, dulling the surface. This is called "flashing". When light hits these dull spots, they stick out like a sore thumb. The smooth patch also stands out in contrast to the slightly bumpy texture of the rest of the wall. A quick coat of primer is all it takes to eliminate flashing and texture differences.
Primer seals the patch so paint won't sink in and look dull. To match texture, prime with a roller, feathering out the edges. Choose a nap thickness to match the surrounding wall texture (a 3/8-in. nap roller for smooth walls; 1/2-in. for textured).
Let Paint Dry, Then Cut the Tape Loose for a Perfect Edge
If you are unable to quickly remove the tape after you cut in the baseboard or door casing, wait until it the paint is dry, then cut the tape with a razor and remove. Paint forms a film between the wall and the tape, and removing the tape tears pieces of dried paint off the wall. So before pulling off the tape, cut it loose.
Avoid Lap Marks
To avoid lap marks, roll the full height of the wall and keep a wet edge. Lap marks occur when you roll over paint that's already partly dry. The key to avoiding lap marks is to maintain a "wet edge," so each stroke of your roller overlaps the previous stroke before the paint can begin to dry.
To maintain a wet edge, paint an entire wall all at once. Start at one end, running the roller up and down the full height of the wall, moving over slightly with each stroke. Move backward where necessary to even out thick spots or runs.
Don't let the roller become nearly dry. Reload it often so that it's always at least half loaded. Keep the open side of the roller frame facing the area that's already painted. That puts less pressure on the open side of the roller, so you're less likely to leave paint ridges.
Use Cotton Drop Cloths Rather Than Plastic
No matter how careful you are you will splatter paint. It’s a lot easier to prepare for them than to wipe them out of your carpeting or off your wood floor later. All it takes is canvas drop cloths in your work area (a 4-ft. x 15-ft. cloth is about $15). Plastic drop cloths are slippery to walk on or set a ladder on and don’t stay in place. Even worse, paint spills on plastic stay wet, and they can end up on your shoes and get tracked through the house. Canvas is slippery on hard floors, so rosin paper is better over vinyl, tile and hardwood. Tape the sheets together and to the floor to provide a nonslip surface.
But even with canvas or rosin-paper drop cloths, large spills still need to get wiped up right away or they’ll seep through. Clean spills with paper towels or cloth rags. Likewise, if you splatter paint on any other surface, wipe it up immediately.
Sand Trim Between Coats for an Ultra-Smooth Finish
One coat of paint usually won't hide the underlying color and sheen on trim. And if you don't sand the surface smooth between coats, the finish may have a grainy texture. For a smooth finish, sand the trim before applying each coat of paint. Sand the trim with a fine-grit sanding sponge. Sponges get into crevices where sandpaper can't go and apply even pressure. Then apply the first coat of paint, let it dry at least 24 hours, lightly sand it again for a completely smooth surface, and apply the second coat. After each sanding, vacuum the trim, then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove the dust.
Mix Several Cans of Paint in a Large Bucket for Consistent Color
Paint color may vary slightly from one can to the next. If you have to open a new can in the middle of a wall, the difference may be noticeable. Mixing the paints together eliminates the problem. This is called boxing. It’s best to estimate the amount of paint you’ll need and mix it in a 5-gallon bucket. When coverage is difficult to estimate, add more rather than less. You can always pour the leftover back into cans.
Clean Dirty Surfaces So the Paint Can Form a Strong Bond
Paint dirty, oily surfaces and the paint will easily chip or peel off. So before painting, clean grimy areas with a de-glosser or heavy-duty cleaner intended for pre-paint cleaning. They’re ideal for cleaning greasy or oily areas like kitchen and bathroom walls and removing hand marks around light switches and doorknobs.
Wipe on the cleaner in a circular motion using a lint-free cloth or abrasive pad. Start at the bottom and work up. The cleaners are available at paint stores and home centers. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and eye protection.
Trim, Ceilings and Walls
Paint the trim first, then the ceiling, then the walls. It is easier and faster to tape off the trim than to tape off the walls.
When painting the trim, you don’t have to be neat. Just get a smooth finish on the wood. Don’t worry if the trim paint gets slopped onto the walls. You’ll cover it later when painting the walls. Once the trim is completely painted and dry (at least 24 hours), tape it off and use an “easy release” painter’s tape, then paint the ceiling, then the walls.